A wove mould’s backing layer is similar to that of a laid mould. I’m not sure why but wove backing wires are usually more closely spaced than those used for laid moulds. At least this was the case with the moulds I was able to examine when getting started years ago.
The counting wheel of the loom is changed to make a 7.8 wire per inch wire spacing. The wheel has 3 pins. The twin lead screws (you may remember) have 13 threads per inch so dividing by 3 gives 39 increments per inch. I turn the crank to count 5 of these ( audible as 5 clicks) before adding each new wire. (39/5 = 7.8) The straight (laid) wires used are the same diameter as those used for laid backing; .0254″ diameter. The chain wire is smaller; .013″ diameter.
The first few inches have been ‘woven’ (twisted or twined might be be a better term) and a row of (white) wire spacers is being removed to free up more chain wire. The process of using the loom is covered fully in other posts and in a video.
The backing for this A4 wove mould is completed. The weights will be removed prior to cutting it off of the loom.
The bottom is cut off first.
The wove backing is ready to be fitted to the mould.
The ends of the laid wires are recessed in ledges at the ends and the chain wire rests in a groove there.
The backing is fitted. After adding tape at the ends and along the top to protect the wires the backing will be ready for sewing to the ribs.
A wove mould is sewn in two steps. First the backing layer is sewn to the ribs as shown here. In a later step the wove facing will be sewn to the backing.
The sewing process is very similar to that described earlier for laid moulds. A stitch is placed in every third space (pre-determined by the hole spacing) and the sewing wire is heavier; the same stock as used for the chain wires.
The backing has been sewn to the ribs and the mould is ready for the next step.
Timothy Moore Bookbinding Tools 