A brief review of the tools I use to create this unique and elaborate joint. Most of these tools have been used before when making the mould frame and ribs.
Left to right: a 1/4″ straight bit, a 3/8″ by 9 degree dovetail bit, and a 1/8″ straight bit, all to be used with the router mounted under a wing of my table saw. The hollow ground planer blade has been used all along for making the moulds; freshly sharpened, it will be the only saw blade needed for cutting the deckle joints.
This wooden block has served me well for over 40 years. It has true 90 degree angles here…
…and here so that pieces held upright in the block can be accurately cut with either the saw or router.
Adding the small block on the right changes the angle from parallel (to the fence) to 9 degrees. This matches the angle of the dovetail router bit so the sliding dovetail part of the joint can be sawn to fit the routed groove.
This shows the end of the dial indicator fixture that is used for making lateral adjustments. Also shown are a set of shims, a 6″ vernier caliper and a 6″ rule.
Using the dial indicator for making very fine lateral adjustments; in this case adjusting the table saw fence. It has been ‘zeroed out’ prior to making the desired adjustment. A few tries will be needed to get the fence just right (‘nudging’ and re-tightening the fence each time) but since the fixture remains stationary all the while it will show when the fence has been successfully re-set.
The other end of the dial indicator fixture is used for making vertical adjustments like this. The flat lower end of the plunger has been ‘zeroed out’ while resting on the table. Then it was lifted to rest on the router bit to allow the cutting height to be adjusted.