The clamps can be removed after a few hours, leaving hardened globs of epoxy here and there. But the epoxy stays sticky for a while so is best to let it cure overnight before removing the excess.
This can be cleaned up with a coarse file or with a chisel.
A chisel works best on the inside surfaces. This one has an offset handle to allow paring in hard to reach areas.
A little part of the deckle rim needs to be cut away at each corner. Some of the waste has been routed away at this corner and another pass will remove the rest.
Since the rim of the deckle is slanted inward a little triangular area (A) will stick up just a little where it laps the adjoining rim. A sharp chisel laid flat on the adjoining deckle rim slices this off easily.
“Stapling” the deckle Joint
Above, a pair of 1/8″ diameter holes are drilled through the deckle at each corner.
Traditionally the deckle joints would be stapled with copper wire. The clinched ends of the staple would be hidden beneath brass sheathing that covers the deckle. This deckle is not to be sheathed (and the staples’ sharp ends wouldn’t be covered) so I substitute a pair of acetal pegs for each staple. These will be machined flush with the surface of the deckle.
Lengths of the acetal rod are inserted and trimmed to length. The holes may need to be drilled larger to make the pegs fit. (The rods are supplied a little bigger than their nominal size).
I turn a shallow groove on the pegs to lock them in place when they are epoxied in the holes.
The pegs are started into their holes.
When they are tapped in place glue squirts out the other side.
The pegs and cured epoxy will be filed flush before the deckle is shaped.